Witching Hours: Spellbound in the Mystic Island of Siquijor

By Irene Causing-Orcullo May 25, 2018

Siquijor port of entry © Wayne S. Grazio a.k.a fotograzio

Siquijor port of entry © Wayne S. Grazio a.k.a fotograzio

Siquijor is probably one of the most underrated destinations in the Philippines. But this may soon change as more people are beginning to discover its charms. Known as the Island of Witches and the Mystic Island, Siquijor has stayed mostly under the radar except for adventure seekers and backpackers who have explored it, many of whom have chosen to stay there indefinitely or for good.

I have long known about the island but it was not exactly high on my travel bucket list. And I really had no reason to go there up until a chef and bartender I used to work with invited me to visit. I remember thinking about the things I heard about the place. Island of witches and fear are just some of the top things that immediately popped into my head. Still, I was thrilled with the idea of going somewhere I have never been before, especially one associated with witches and magic.

My first visit was about a month ago. And everything about the island just blew me away. It is a unique and special place with many natural attractions. The calming and peaceful beaches, the nature spots that you can enjoy for free or for super cheap, the noticeable absence of huge commercial buildings commonly seen in many popular tourist attractions around the country, and the many hidden gems to be found where you can chill out and relax are just some of the things I love about the place. So if you are traveling to the Philippines, here are some of the top reasons why Siquijor should be on your list of places to visit.

Embrace the mystical side of the island

 Why the island has become synonymous with witches remains a mystery even to some of the locals I talked with. But instead of shunning the image, the locals seem to have fully embraced it. The legend adds to the fun and mystery surrounding the place. Witches and witchcraft become an underlying theme to a lot of things. I realized this early on as I stumbled upon a witch garden with broomsticks that anyone can freely roam.  Some of the restaurants likewise have a supernatural theme. And there was this store I visited selling potions, amulets, and other charms. The love potion was a best-seller and it was out of stock when I was there.

A place for healing

Cambugahay Falls © Peter V. Sanchez

Apart from being known as the Island of Witches, Siquijor is also home to a lot of healers (mananambals). Many of them follow old traditions of gathering healing herbs used for potions and in making lana or oil believed to cure different types of ailments. But healing is not limited to the prowess of the mananambals and the potency of their potions. The island itself soothes the mind and body. You do not even have to do anything to feel its calming effect. The slow and simple life away from the hustle and noise of urban areas can be a balm to the soul. It gently welcomes you the moment you step foot on the island.

Scenic and affordable

You can enjoy most of the tourist spots for free or at extremely affordable prices. Admission fees at some of the places I visited only cost Php10 (US$0.19) or Php20 (US$0.38). There are no fancy resorts and hotels here. But what it lacks in five-star accommodations and amenities it more than makes up with pure and rustic beauty. The beaches are beautiful with fine, powdery sands that you would love to sink your feet into.

The people

The locals are among the friendliest people I have met. Many are happy to share stories and answer questions about the legend surrounding the island. I was also surprised to find more foreign than local tourists on my first visit. And many have chosen to stay there for good. Some of the travelers I met there even told me not to tell others about Siquijor and let it stay under the radar. The more time I spent on the island, the more I understood why some people would want to keep its charms a secret. Siquijor is beautiful as it is - underdeveloped and rustic.

The veg-friendly options

 

The Philippines is not known for being veg-friendly, especially if you are traveling away from the major urban hubs. But Siquijor may be one of the few exceptions. There are restaurants that have veg options or can veganize some of the dishes on their menu. Not to mention the abundance of fresh fruits you will find around the island that will keep you full.

I have been to Siquijor twice now. And I still do not know if witches really do exist as I have not met any, at least from what I know. But the mystery and my sense of curiosity remain undiminished. I think those are among the things that make the place truly unique.


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