Meatless in Buenos Aires: Top Reasons to Love the Paris of South America

By Jercyl Lerin Oct 25, 2018

Buenos Aires is known for its asado and the social ritual around it deeply embedded in Argentine culture. So imagine my initial doubts on how I could possibly pull off going meatless in the land of carne. I have only been plant-based since January this year and have been increasingly vegan-curious in the past months. But if there is one thing I learned on my recent trip to the city, it would be this: it will surprise you in so many wonderful ways. Here are just some of the top reasons to love Buenos Aires - the Paris of South America:

The Veg Food Scene

Delicious quinoa salad recommended by the food server at Villegas, a nice restaurant in Puerto Madero near the Puente de la Mujer.

Buenos Aires is surprisingly veg-friendly for a place renowned for its meat-centric barbecue. The city has a fairly good number of vegetarian and vegan dining options. The HappyCow app showed about ten veg dining options within a 2-kilometer radius from where I was staying. One was only less than 500 meters away. The cafes and restaurants I visited have veg options. I had my first dinner at Deltoro Burgers. To be honest, I was not sure if there was something I could eat there when my friends and I entered the place. I was happily surprised that they have a veggie burger and sandwich on the menu. Their delicious veg burger was huge and came with a generous serving of fries. Some of my most memorable meals in BA were the veg falafel sandwich which I bought from a food truck at the Urban Park in Puerto Madero and the quinoa salad in Villegas restaurant near the Puente de la Mujer.

The Architecture

Plaza de Mayo

Casa Rosada

The city boasts of stunning architecture to gawk at. Plaza de Mayo is a good starting point for a stroll to admire the buildings nearby. Casa Rosada (Pink House), an old Customs House building which now serves as the office of the President of Argentina, stands out because of its striking color. Several other beautiful buildings surround the area so prepare to spend at least an hour of your time there to see the unique features and gorgeous details. From Plaza de Mayo, take a walk towards the city's iconic landmark - the Obelisk (Obelisco de Buenos Aires) and you will not be disappointed. The historic national monument sits in the midst of some really awe-inspiring buildings. Teatro Colón, one of the world's most beautiful opera houses, is only a few minutes’ walk. This high concentration of awe-inspiring buildings in the area is just a taste of the architectural gems you will find as you explore more of the city.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

El Ateneo building facade

Inside one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world.

View from above

This bookstore deserves a spot on the list, especially for a bookworm like me. If there was no time to explore and I was asked to pick just one place to see, I would have easily picked it over other more popular attractions. The old theatre turned bookstore is one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. It lives up to the hype. I have seen photos of the bookstore before, but nothing compares to the experience of seeing it with my own eyes. The building has a beautiful facade and as you step into the bookshop, your eyes and senses start to feast on its lovely interior. Make sure to take your time exploring every floor to soak up every breathtaking detail and to browse some of the wide arrays of books and other items available. A cafe sits on what used to be a stage which is a great place to sit and enjoy the bookish vibe with a cup of coffee. El Ateneo is located in the Recoleta neighborhood and is only about a 15-minute walk away from the famous Recoleta Cemetery. Book lover or not, you won't regret visiting it. 

The Barrios

One of the things I like most about Buenos Aires is how some of its neighborhoods or barrios have more than one attraction. This makes for a compelling reason to plan your sightseeing by neighborhood.

Puerto Madero

The view from my room.

Puente de la Mujer (Woman's Bridge)

I stayed in this neighborhood in a hotel about a 15-minute walk away from Puente de la Mujer (Woman's Bridge). The rotating footbridge was designed by architect Santiago Calatrava and is a popular attraction in the area. It looks even more gorgeous at night. The area is a commercial district with several cafes and restaurants. What I liked most about staying in this barrio was how it was conveniently located to a lot of other attractions. It is within easy walking distance to Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, the Obelisk, Teatro Colon, and Galleria Pacifico shopping mall among many others. You can also just take a stroll to the famous Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo.

Recoleta

La Recoleta Cemetery

Eva Peron’s tomb

The Floralis Genérica

This neighborhood is brimming with fascinating attractions. From architecture, art and culture to everything in between, you will find plenty of things to see and experience here. It is home to the El Ateneo, one of the world's most beautiful bookshops. La Recoleta Cemetery, one of the city's most popular tourist attractions, is also located in the neighborhood. The cemetery houses over a thousand vaults some of which are National Historical Monuments. Many visit the place to admire the graves of many notable Argentines including that of Eva Perón. Other unmissable sights include the Floralis Genérica, the National Library, and El Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA) which boasts an extensive collection of works of Argentine and European artists. Most of the attractions are only a few minutes walk away from each other.

La Boca

El Caminito

The alley's colorful houses.

Taking a walk in Caminito.

I went to La Boca to see El Caminito, a street museum that retains a strong traditional vibe, at around 10:00 in the morning. I realized it was still fairly early since most of the cafes, restaurants, and other establishments there were still in the process of setting up for the day. But I enjoyed strolling on the cobblestones of this quaint alley with its colorful houses and fascinating details. The tango dancers at the Feria de Artesanos Caminito are also said to be a common sight here, but I wasn't able to see one during my visit. La Boca is also home to one of South America's renowned football stadium La Bombonera.

Palermo

Sreet signs in Palermo

Map near the entrance to Paseo El Rosedal

Stop and smell the roses.

This is the city's largest neighborhood and also widely popular as a shopping destination. It has a wide array of trendy bars, cafes, and restaurants. Art enthusiasts will find several galleries and museums to explore. Palermo is also a great place to enjoy some nature time with its abundance of parks and green spaces. Stop and smell the roses at the Rosedal rose garden (Paseo El Rosedal), which I did on a cold and cloudy spring day. It was still early spring so many of the more than 18,000 roses that are said to be planted in this garden were not yet in full bloom. But I saw many different types of roses already blooming. The vast garden has a lake, a Poet's Garden, and more.

The Paris of South America did remind me of the City of Light. But it also exuded a distinct and charming blend of its own unique culture infused with some Italian and other European influences. I would love to visit it again someday.


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